In aromatherapy, you may already know that the lightest oils are classified as top notes. However, it can be a bit confusing because the heaviest oils fall into the category of middle notes. The oils that sit between these two are referred to as base notes. The most effective blends incorporate a mix of all these notes. Instead of combining three top notes or three middle notes, it's more beneficial to choose oils from each category. This approach helps you craft well-rounded blends that strike a perfect balance, avoiding being overly heavy or too light.
Top Notes:
The top note, often referred to as the head or peak note, is the first scent you notice in a fragrance. It's typically the most intense but evaporates quickly, lasting anywhere from 10 minutes to a few hours. While it sets the stage for the fragrance, it soon makes way for the other notes to emerge. According to Calkin and Jellinek, they account for about 15-25% of the overall fragrance composition.
Essential oils classified as top notes are known for their penetrating, sharp aromas that are both stimulating and uplifting. This group of oils is the most potent, and when applied to the skin, they can create either a cooling or warming sensation, though they don't feel hot. As a general guideline, it's best to use fewer drops of top notes in your blends, although there are exceptions, such as lemon and petitgrain.
Middle Notes:
The middle note, often referred to as the heart or modifier, typically becomes noticeable between 10 to 45 minutes after applying the perfume and can linger for several hours to even a few days. This component constitutes about 30-40% of the overall fragrance.
Heart note oils are generally characterized by floral, sweet, green, ambery, or spicy scents. They have a moderate volatility and play a crucial role in balancing and harmonizing the fragrance, providing body, warmth, and coherence. In a well-crafted composition, heart notes emerge after the initial top notes and serve as the central core of the blend, expressing its primary aesthetic. Thus, they hold significant importance among the three types of notes.
As suggested by their name, middle notes are the essential oils that form the bulk of the fragrance formula. They help soften the sharpness of the top notes and can last up to three days. In fragrance formulations, they act as equalizers, moderating the intensity of the more potent essential oils.
Base notes:
The base note, often referred to as the fixative or body note, serves a crucial role in fragrance. It helps to slow down the evaporation of the top note and acts as a foundation that holds the entire scent together. Base notes can linger for several days, sometimes even over a week. While the top note introduces the fragrance, the middle and base notes form the essence of the blend. Combining oils from all three categories results in a harmonious scent that evolves over time.
Base notes contribute depth and richness to the fragrance, anchoring the perfume as a whole. Examples of base notes include Sandalwood and Patchouli, which become noticeable after the initial top and middle notes have faded, allowing the full scent to settle on the skin. This is why it's important to wait at least thirty minutes before making a final choice on a new perfume; the initial scent can change significantly after some time.
Typically, base note oils have woody, rooty, or mossy characteristics. They are less volatile and possess a dark, heavy quality that adds depth, warmth, and presence to the blend. In a well-crafted fragrance, base notes are the last to be perceived, supporting the heart notes and completing the overall composition.
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